Yes I read the Label, But!
By Diana O'Brien
All commercially grown plants come with labels in their pots these days. If you are lucky, depending on whether you bought it from a specialist, it just might include the name of the cultivar that you have purchased. But in the case of anything that belongs to the Family Geraniaceae, invariably called Geraniums selected from chain store shelves, then much of what is printed in a fairly minimal plastic space is inevitably basic. Unfortunately, when plants of so many different varieties of any kind are produced in hundreds of thousands by wholesalers each season any label, if only for reasons of economy, needs to be all- encompassing simply reflecting care for the species rather than individual varieties.
So what is the average label in a pot or basketful of 'geraniums' likely to tell you?
Geranium. Grow in full sun. Water regularly.
Unfortunately the chances are that in most cases the instructions are wrong on all three counts! In the first place, the actual plant actual is invariably a member of the Genus Pelargonium (not Geranium) which includes at least three or four types of the most commonly grown. Those known as Zonal pelargoniums (best described to the beginner- grower as plants with red flowers commonly seen growing in terracotta pots!); Ivy-leaved pelargoniums, slender stemmed, spillover basket plants and Regal pelargoniums which produce their comparatively large azalea-like flowers mainly in spring.More about the genus Geranium, better known as Cranesbills, later - but for the moment back to the instructions 'Grow in full sun'.
There is no doubt that those red flowering plants in terracotta pots seen growing on windowsills and doorsteps all over Europe and around the Mediterranean seem to thrive in full sun and most of them do. However, quite a number of the modern hybrids raised over the last twenty or thirty years have far more demanding requirements - perhaps morning sun only - even partial sun for most the day, in order to avoid pale petals or certain colours of foliage becoming sun burnt.
Scented leaf pelargoniums, invariably found among the herb section on nursery shelves, are other members of the genus Pelargonium, many of whose direct descendants still have, or have retained in spite of hybridization, the characteristics of the original South African species. As quite a few of this last group are found growing naturally on the edges of semi-shaded woodland areas adjacent to moist river banks, for example Pelargonium tomentosum the lovely, velvety foliaged, peppermint- scented vine, placing those in the full heat of the summer sun would soon lead to their demise.
Water Regularly? Well yes, it stands to common sense that if you deprive any pot grown plant of water long enough it will eventually die. On the other hand, as we now know, or should, because we have read it often enough in journals that pelargoniums are succulent plants. That is to say, many of them have the ability to store water in both their stems and leaves. It follows then that any pelargonium set into the ground where the roots can forage for their own moisture and nutrients to replenish supplies is going to be able to cope. Where 'regular watering' becomes not only surplus to their requirements it can even cause physical damage.
Ivy-leaved pelargoniums are a prime example. Give them too much water then they will react by over- full cells in the leaf tissue first swelling like blisters and then bursting to leave a corky residue behind - a condition known as Oedema. Cranesbills, the common name for plants belonging to the Genus Geranium, are native to Europe, southern Asia and northern Africa but naturalized in part cultivated ground throughout temperate Australia and Tasmania. In the ACT they can be found in disturbed sites in swampy habitats in mountain gullies and along creeks (ref. Flora of the ACT. Nancy Burbidge and Max Gray. 1970). In all fairness most of the commercially viable Geraniums - Cranesbills, that we now grow in mixed borders in Australian gardens, originated in the northern hemisphere many of them growing in woodland sites and hedgerows where they would normally have experienced a far more mellow climate than we can offer, yet many of then do particularly well here.
A classic example is hybrid x of Geranium wallichianum, sold in nurseries as 'Rozanne' - a stunning open five-petalled blue flower on a herbaceous plant with trailing stems, which remains in bloom for many months over summer - a sheer delight in any garden. 'Rozanne' has proved to be well and truly drought hardy, surviving on any natural rainfall which brings us back to that original label - WATER REGULARLY? Not required in this case.
So what have you learnt from the average plant label: not as much as you need to know obviously. So ask a few more questions at the nursery whilst you are there. And then check out a few books or the internet if you have a computer, when you get home. In the end you'll feel much better about what you have discovered and so will the plant.
Geraniums
PELARGONIUM CARE: SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER
Joan Powell
Now is the time to prepare your plants for the spring growing season and to also pray hard for plenty of rain. Many plants will need potting on, those that don’t will benefit from a top dressing. Carefully remove a few centimetres of soil from the top of the pot, taking care not to damage any surface roots and top dress with new soil. For the top dressing I add blood and bone and a little dolomite to my regular potting mix and then water it in with a weak solution of Seasol.
Commence feeding with a food balanced fertilizer. I use Phostrogen at ½ strength fortnightly until the end of September and then full strength through to flowering. You should always water plants before adding fertilizers.
Late August or early September is a good time to give your Regal and Angel Pelargoniums a top dressing of Sulphate of Potash to improve flower colour. Apply at the rate of ¼ teaspoon for 125ml pots, ½ teaspoon for 150ml pots and about a teaspoon for 200-220ml pots.
Inspect your plants to see if they have a nicely balanced shape. If not, a further light prune may be necessary. Don’t forget to also inspect your hanging baskets and pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching and to ensure a well-shaped bushy plant.
Spring is the best time to take cuttings of fancy leaved varieties but wait until the possibility of frosts is over. Repot if necessary and then move to a warm protected position.
Check for any insect attack particularly white fly, aphids, mites and caterpillars. It these pests are not brought under control at the start of the growing season it will be almost impossible to eradicate them. There are several good products available for controlling these pests.
Also check for soil pests. Soil mealy bug and slaters can be eradicated with Hortico Lawn Beetle and Slater Granules. When using any chemicals ensure that you read the label and carefully follow all safety directions.
Remove dead leaves and old flower heads from potted plants and give them a quarter turn weekly. Make sure they have good light and are spaced well apart to provide good air circulation. Check for signs of mildew, black rot or rust, if necessary spray with a fungicide such as Zineb or Mancozeb, or you could try Aspirin water. Clean used pots, growing benches and sterilize cutting implements. Good hygiene will help prevent disease spreading.
A careful watering program is essential, water early in the day and avoid wetting the foliage. The size of containers, type of potting mix and position of your plants should determine how much water is needed.
ROSE GERANIUM JELLY
A recipe to make in the spring and early summer when the fresh green growth of rose-scented geraniums contain their full perfume.
1 small bunch of rose geranium leaves, 4 cups of water, 5 cups sugar, 125g powdered pectin, 1 teaspoon allspice, a few drops of red food colouring, juice of one large lemon.
Wash the geranium leaves and steep them in the sugar together with the allspice and lemon juice for an hour or so. Place all into a saucepan with the water. Bring to the boil, strain, then add the pectin and bring to the boil again, stirring for about a minute before adding the food colouring. Pour into small sterilised jars containing a rose scented leaf, then seal.
Use with roast meat, as a spread for scones or add to pastries, such as cumin drop buscuits (recipe below).
170g butter, 2 teaspoons cumin seed, 1 cup sugar, rose geranium jelly, 2 eggs, 3 cups self-raising flour, pinch salt.
Cream butter and sugar, beat in eggs one at a time. Fold in sifted flour and salt and add the cumin seed. Form into small balls and roll in sugar. Then make a depression in the centre and fill with rose geranium jelly. Bake in a moderate oven at 190 degrees C until lightly brown, then cool on a tray.
Geranium Plume Moth
by Rex Daly
The geranium plume moth is quite small with a wingspan of only 15 to 25mm and is brownish in colour. The adults are weak fliers and usually remain on or near the host plant. The moths are most active during the early evening. Eggs are deposited singly any place on the plants, usually laid on newly forming flowers or on the underside of leaves of terminal young growth. Hatchings occur in two to three weeks.
Young larvae mine in leaves and later burrow into stems, petioles, flowers or seed pods. It is incredible that this small catepillar can render a healthy zonal pelargonium into such anattractive plant in a short period of time. If you observe any of the following damage appearing on your zonal pelargonium, then it is highly likely you have the unwelcome pest known as the geranium plume moth.
They mine the leaves i. e. you will find little pin head damage over the leaf area. The most noticeable is of course holes bored in flower buds and subsequently holes in the petals of the flower when fully opened.
Scarring on the upper parts of the plant stems leaves the branch devoid of much of the cambium layer, leaving the branch unusable for cuttings also as a result the plant does lose a lot of its vigour. The larva will often burrow into the stem near a node which weakens the plant and often causes disease to enter. I have found that damage to pelargoniums (geraniums) from the geranium plume moth appeared to be confined mainly to the zonal pelargoniums.
Spraying every seven days for three to four weeks with Dipel or Success can control this pest
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